The Doi Chang Lisumi Estate is located in Chiang Rai Province, in the northern part of Thailand. The P&F coffee company found this small estate about 4 years ago. Doi Chang Lisumi is a small group of growers that have an enormous passion to produce specialty coffee. The word “Lisumi” comes from  Lisu (hill tribes in Doi Chaang) + ami (farm, plantation,estate). The Lisu tribe once made a part of their living by growing illegal opium but has changed to produce coffee using sustainable agriculture, friendly to the environment.

This is a dry-processed coffee and the sorting of these greens is exemplary for major defects. There is no foreign matter, no hint of insect damage, mold, fermentation, or rot. Removing the broken beans after milling would make this a virtually zero defect coffee, and very attractive to specialty buyers.

Review

As you know from our other Thailand coffee reviews, coffees from the Doi Chaang region have an unusual flavor reminiscent of buttered snowpeas or green asparagus. This can be either disconcerting or charming depending on the coffee's other qualities. Here this characteristic Terroir is subtle and charming, part of a sweet and graceful cup. The coffee has the floral esters imparted by high quality dry processing, along with a crisp acidity and clean focused flavors that are rare even in well prepped naturals. The only flaw is slight a hint of astringency in the finish.

As espresso, the shot was sweet, and balanced in acidity and roast, but slightly dull, with the flavors not fully delineated. This was probably more my fault than the coffees, since the beans are on the dry side, and, for Full City roasts, will profit from a faster than usual ramp to the first crack.

This is a very appealing cup for anyone who appreciates natural coffees, and a great introduction to the coffees from this part of the world.

Cupping Scores

• Lighter Roasts: The Doi Chaang buttered asparagus is joined by fruit esters. lots of sweetness in a clean crisp cup.
• Darker Roasts: The coffee is dry. Ramp it fast to the first crack, and use gentle heat from there, otherwise the roast flavors in Full City roasts will be dull.
• As Espresso: Balanced and sweet. Follow the dark roast intructions for best results.